1998 Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

The Trimbachs, who sell 45% of their wine in the U.S. market, report that pinot gris is now their biggest seller. According to winemaker Pierre Trimbach, yields were high in '99 and '97, with 2000 more moderate, like 1998; production of gewurztraminer was especially low in 2000, he added. Acidity levels were roughly similar in '99 and '00, but the fruit in 2000 began with a bit more sugar. Some of the estate 2000 tokays, most of which were picked in the second half of September before the worst of the rains, came in with record levels of potential alcohol. Even the Trimbachs' tokay SGNs were from fruit harvested at the end of September and beginning of October. "Only the latest-picked stuff was vulnerable to gray rot," noted Pierre. "We love the hot years," noted export director Jean Trimbach, "because we always have a lot of acidity here, much more than in vineyards farther south."

The Trimbachs were starting to bottle their '98s in early May, beginning with the big wines in order to ensure that they did not sit in a warm cellar in the summer.This vintage featured higher-than-average acidity for riesling and pinot gris, but gewürztraminer acids were lower than those of '97.The '98 rieslings remind export director Jean Trimbach of '95, but winemaker Pierre Trimbach points out that pinot gris was difficult in '98 as crop levels were high and grey rot spread quickly after the October 1 rainstorm.Still, notes Jean, "everyone wants pinot gris today; riesling is too intellectual for most of the market."Incidentally, Jean and Pierre consider '97 a five-star vintage for both riesling and gewürztraminer, better than '98, '96 or '95.I have included notes on a few important current releases from vintages prior to '97.Trimbach remains one of Alsace few reliable sources of excellent dry wines.