2021 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo

It’s amazing to think about what Cristiana and Antonio Tiberio have accomplished in such a small amount of time, but what's even more amazing is how humble they’ve remained throughout the process, and how, unknowingly, they have pushed the entire region of Abruzzo forward by leaps and bounds. The Tiberio winery and vineyards are located in Cugnoli within the hilly interior of Abruzzo and in between two valleys formed by Gran Sasso and Maiella. This location, at around 380 meters, is very particular, as the two valleys funnel ventilating winds through the vineyards during the day and cooling currants at night. While standing amongst Cristiana Tiberio’s 70-year-old, double-pergola-trained vines and admiring the well-shaded Trebbiano Abruzzese that creates the Fonte Canale bottling, one will immediately notice that the wind never seems to die down. It’s because of this that, even in the warmest of years, these vines remain vital and balanced. Tiberio’s vineyards are contiguous, running along the gently sloping hills of the region, and all planted through massal selection using the original Montepulciano, Trebbiano Abruzzese and Pecorino that were found in the vineyard that Cristiana’s father discovered in 1999. In more recent years, the differences of terroir have made certain parcels stand out, such as the Colle Vota vineyard, where vines grow in sandy soils mixed with a large amount of rocks and produce a Montepulciano that is more ethereal and mineral in style. Simply through soil alone, these 20-year-old vines produce larger berries, smaller, more compact bunches and result in a much-later harvest than the rest of the vineyard. Terroir is not something that the average producer speaks of in Abruzzo, yet it’s the focus at Tiberio. The family has continued to bottle their estate Montepulciano (a blend of their vineyards and one of the best values of the region) but also the old-vine Archivio and the aforementioned Colle Vota. In every vintage, both of these single vineyard wines demonstrate their uniqueness, and are now two of the best reds being made in the region. Year after year, tasting through this portfolio gives me hope for all of Abruzzo, as it shows what’s truly possible on a large scale if producers begin to look more at the earth beneath their feet and less at high production and winemaking wizardry.