2002 Sassicaia

Marquis Niccolo Incisa della Rocchetta feels that 2003 will prove to be a stellar cabernet vintage (Sassicaia is all cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc), as the vines here, some of the oldest of the Bolgheri area with an average age of 30 years, weathered the drought and heat remarkably well. "It's difficult to convince people that it wasn't just a hot, drought year," he told me. "Besides, Sassicaia does extremely well in off years, but needs a lot of bottle age to show well. People don't have any patience anymore." (Incidentally, a recent 20-year vertical tasting showed that the '76, always considered a forgettable vintage of Sassicaia, is absolutely spectacular now.) For years, Incisa della Rocchetta has been accused by some Italian wine writers of harvesting much too early. In 2004 all the cabernet was in fact picked within the month of September, whereas some of his neighbors harvested well into October. "But we think it will prove to be a great vintage for Sassicaia," Incisa della Rocchetta maintained. "Wedon't need to run after impressive concentration. We know our wine is a long-distance runner that will come out ahead in the end."