2019 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo

The 2019s from Terre Nere are aromatically expressive, radiant and supple on the palate, as well as classically structured. The best part is that you could almost trick yourself into thinking that the majority of them are ready to drink; that is until you are up to your second glass into a bottle when your palate tells you that those fine tannins are building a structural fortification that will carry these for over a decade in the cellar. Another huge benefit to this portfolio is the ability to explore the diverse terroir of Mount Etna, as each of the reds are produced almost exactly the same in the winery, with spontaneous fermentations followed by 16-18 months of refinement in a combination of barriques and tonneaux. This year’s tastings included two total show-stopping performances from the San Lorenzo and Calderara Sottana vineyards (La Vigna di Don Peppino), as well as one of the most seductive renditions I’ve yet witnessed of Santo Spirito, plus a new wine (from similar soils and location as San Lorenzo, but only .8 hectares of vines), the head-spinning Dagala di Bocca d'Orzo. On a different note, we have the 2020 Biancos, which have the unfortunate duty of following the 2019s that were released last year. The whites are quite pretty, refined and mineral in style, with Calderara Sottana edging out above the others. Another wine of note is the Bianco Montalto, now in its second vintage, and from the southern slopes of Mount Etna - which is not considered to be the best place to source Carricante, yet apparently both Terre Nere and the team from Idda (Gaja and Graci) seem to think otherwise - and the wines are pretty fantastic.