2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva La Fabriseria

The Tedeschi winery is located in Pedemonte within the Valpolicella Classica zone. However, the family tends to vineyards within two distinct locations, with 15 hectares of vineyards in the Classica zone and another 31 hectares in the larger Valpolicella growing area to the east, between Tregnago and Mezzane di Sotto. While soils (most often a varying mix of calcareous marl) and elevations (ranging from 160 meters at Mont Olmi to 480 meters at La Fabriseria) differ, one factor that ties all of their holdings together is that they are situated on steep hillsides with inclines ranging from 20 to 45 degrees. This diverse range of terroir has inspired the Tedeschi family to pursue a portfolio built on crus for both the Valpolicellas and Amarones. Monte Olmi, with its lower elevations planted in terraced rows on soil rich in limestone is completely different from La Fabriseri, where high-elevation, marine skeletal soils of to create a savory Amarone with amazing finesse. Another location that has already been used for their cru Valpolicella but will soon be released in Amarone form is Maternigo, a much larger growing area, but one that mixes the traits of, and finds a balance between, the two crus mentioned before. This is a portfolio of savory, high-energy wines that really show the emphasis that open-minded producers are now placing on terroir. The 2015s and 2016s were tremendous standouts in my tastings. In fact, it was only the range of 2017s that didn’t fully impress me; they seemed to be lacking in focus, staying power and depth, which likely speaks more of the vintage than of the winemaking.