2015 Panoplie

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2024 - 2034

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As usual, there’s a dizzying array of bottlings on offer from this iconic Paso Robles producer, whose wines continue to set the pace for elegance in the region. Owner Jason Haas and longtime winemaker Neil Collins (actually the only person ever to have that job) told me that the 2016 growing season was “extremely easy and well-timed,” with no frost events early on and a warm but not too hot growing season that kept acidity levels healthy. The resulting wines are, perhaps, richer than the 2015s, he said, but “they aren’t on the super-ripe side of the equation, either.” I’ve been especially impressed by the white wine program here in recent years and, starting with the 2016 vintage, there is now a Picardan bottling in the Tablas Creek lineup. This rare southern Rhône variety is rarely encountered, much less vinified on its own, in its native region these days, so it was especially interesting to be able to check it out here this summer.

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There’s a new varietal wine at Tablas Creek this year, the rare Terret Noir, one of the thirteen permitted grapes for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which pushes the number of those varieties bottled from this iconic producer’s 120 acres of vineyards to nine. The style continues to push toward greater finesse, which is no easy feat in this hot region, but winemaker Neil Collins and his team have proven more than able to pull it off with impressive consistency. The oak presence in the wines is restrained and tannins are always well-managed, which makes for ease of drinking on the young side but these bottlings possess the depth and balance to reward patience.

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