2008 Montefalco Sagrantino Colle alle Macchie

Watching Giampaolo Tabarrini work is dizzying, to say the least. His wild outbursts, ceaseless energy and extreme multi-tasking make one feel like the wheels are about to fall off at any moment, yet they never do. Tabarrini uses his unique talents to create some of the best wines coming out of Umbria while promoting the region and as the head of the local Consorzio. My recent visit to the winery included a tasting of nearly every single parcel and individual variety from tank prior to being blended. And all of this in the newly minted winery that could easily house three times his current production. I will say that there’s some magic juice in store for lovers of Sagrantino and Sangiovese in this cellar. I also tasted the new releases, which include the 2018 single-vineyard Sagrantinos and Rosso Boccatone, a preview of the 2019 Colle Grimaldesco and the 2020 and 2021 Bianco Adarmando. First and foremost, I’d say that of all the 2018 Sagrantinos I’ve tasted in the last year, these are some of the most filigreed and ethereal examples to date. They may drink sooner than bigger vintages, like the 2019 I previewed, but I also expect they’ll provide a broader window of pure enjoyment. As for the Bianco Adarmando, it’s easily one of the top white wines being made in Italy from a pleasure, quality and age-ability standpoint. The 2021 is sure to be a long-lived wine, but good luck holding onto any bottles once you taste it in its current primary stage. The 2020 lacks a bit of the same complexity, showing more of a warm character through its textures and fruit, but is a seductress. I finished with a preview of Tabarrini’s passion project, still under wraps, created to tame the tannins of Sagrantino. The 2020 is a wine that will be worth the wait.