2016 Riesling Alfer Hölle trocken**

“I didn’t start picking in earnest until the third week in October” of 2016, reported Ulrich “Ulli” Stein, “but at that point, in order to achieve Kabinett, rising must weights forced my hand.” As is, Stein’s Kabinett Trocken is this year a bit more robust than in ideal vintages. But as a whole, his 2016 collection – or at least, the lion’s share that I could taste of it – is quite successful. The 2016 rendition of Stein’s Alfer Hölle Riesling Spätlese Trocken 1900 – nowadays often his most evocative wine – was still fermenting when I last visited to taste with him in mid-September 2017, so I’ll report on it in another year. And there will be 2016s allowed to oxidize in barrel without sulfur for two or more years, a genre two notably successful examples of which I review below. (For abundant details concerning this unusual estate and Stein’s formidable but today largely unfamiliar vineyards, colorful personality, and unusual labeling practices, consult the introduction to my coverage of the 2014s and 2015s, as well as the tasting notes accompanying those reports.)