2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (Rutherford)

Proprietor Val Bure brings the same killer competitive instinct he had as a professional hockey player in the NHL to making wine. Bure's estate vineyard, which is located in St. Helena, right next to Vineyard 29 and Grace, informs the Thirteen and Estate Cabernets, while the Duration emerges mostly from the Missouri Hopper vineyard. Luc Morlet makes the wines in his trademark style that emphasizes voluptuousness and textural opulence. Like many young proprietors, Val Bure is still finding his way. That is a process that can't be rushed. As good as these wines are - and they are quite good - they are also not that differentiated from other similar wines in Napa Valley. That is Bure's next challenge. To express his own style.

Winemaker Fredrik Johansson has done a tremendous job in elevating quality and consistency at Staglin in recent years. The estate's 2012s and 2013s are fabulous. In particular, it will be fascinating to follow the evolution of the Staglins' new wine from Booth-Bella Oaks, a historic parcel they are redeveloping with the help of David Abreu's vineyard team. The 2013s are some of the most exciting wines I have tasted here.

Under the leadership of winemaker Fredrik Johansson, the wines at Staglin keep getting better and better. For a while, Staglin was a bit of a revolving door of winemakers, but things seem to have settled down a bit, and the greater stability is coming through in the wines. Staglin fans will note a new wine in the range. The Staglin family has entered into partnership with the Booth family, who acquired the Bella Oaks vineyard in late 2010. Bella Oaks fruit had previously gone to Heitz for decades, but going forward Staglin will have access to the fruit. A small amount of wine was bottled from the entire vineyard in 2011, but 2012 is the first true commercial release. The Booths began to replant portions of Bella Oaks with the guidance of David Abreu following the 2011 harvest. The new parcels will include pieces of Cabernet Franc and Merlot to complement the Cabernet. It will be fascinating to watch the new Booth-Bella Oaks Cabernet develop at Staglin over the coming years and hopefully beyond. Readers who have not tasted the Staglin wines in a few years owe it to themselves to do so. Simply put, this is a fabulous showing from the Staglin family and winemaker Fredrik Johansson.