2006 Dolcetto d'Alba Bric del Salto

I can't think of too many properties that have made such huge strides in quality as Sottimano has. Recent bottles of the 2001 and 2004 Barbaresco Pajorè revealed an enormous leap in elegance and finesse. Fortunately, Sottimano's entry-level wines are every bit as delicious as their Barbarescos, so readers won't need to mortgage the house to drink great wines from this producer. I know I am starting to sound like a broken record, but these are truly exceptional wines at this level, or any level for that matter.

From top to bottom, th is is an impressive set of wines from Sottimano, a property that continues its rapid ascent into the top echelon of the region's finest estates. Andrea Sottimano's wines have always been about potential but with h is 2004s he has produced the first of what will hopefully be many important vintages. Sottimano loves Burgundy and h is 2004 Barbarescos are clearly informed by the passion he has for those wines. In 2004 there is also a Barbaresco Riserva from the oldest vines at Pajorè and Cottà, but that wine won't see the light of day until next year at the earliest. It is a special wine that will be well worth the wait. In the meantime there is no shortage of outstanding offerings from which to choose. Over the last few vintages the estate has reduced the level of new oak and improved the quality of its cooperage, both of which have given the wines greater transparency. After alcoholic fermentation the wines are racked into French oak barrels (25% new) for the malolactic fermentations which are kept long, as Sottimano believes th is gives the wines greater richness and complexity. Once the malos are fin ished, the wines are racked into used barrels where they continue to age prior to being assembled and bottled.