2017 Les Hauts de Smith Blanc
France
Pessac Léognan, Graves
Bordeaux
White
Sauvignon Blanc
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2020 - 2027
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At Smith Haut-Lafitte, Daniel and Florence Cathiard are busy overseeing renovations to the winery with plans for a new tasting room. First, I asked about the effects of frost. “We were almost completely frozen on [the vineyard of] Cantelys,” head winemaker Fabien Teitgen explained. “We have some fans there but in the end we lost over 50%. The winter was dry and February warmer than usual that prompted an early bud-burst. April was dry and cool and then of course, there was frost towards the end. May was warm and we had a short and homogenous flowering. June was hot and dry and there was some hydric stress in the middle of the month that caused polyphenol synthesis. July was dry and the temperatures were average so that véraison was two weeks earlier than usual. We had to pick quickly from 24 August to 9 September for the whites and on 11 and 29 September for the reds. We used 160 pickers, many locals from the university, compared to 100 in 2016, in order to harvest at optimal ripeness. There was a little less extraction this year and stopped the punching down before the end of maceration and kept the temperature around 26° to 28° Celsius for the maceration. We now add some whole bunches of Merlot with red/brown stems representing around 10% of the production of the Grand Vin. We used no second generation bunches. They were used to make some rosé.” It was a good solid set of releases, each label designed from specific markets, whether it is domestic or international, for early or late drinking, or the crown jewel Smith Haut-Lafitte itself. This is an excellent contribution to the vintage full of depth and succulence, perhaps one of the longer lived Pessac-Léognan wines this year.
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