2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Over the years, I’ve taken a great interest in Montalcino wineries that produce their Brunello from a distinct terroir as opposed to blending from different locations throughout the region. My obsession with these wineries is rooted in a desire to truly understand how Montalcino could begin to break itself down into meaningful subzones. One specific location that stands out is the Sesta area, and the producer that epitomizes Sesta is Sesta di Sopra. Sesta di Sopra is located off of an old farm road that runs between Castelnuovo dell’Abate in the southwestern territory and Sant'Angelo in Colle. The terrain is rugged and rocky, with vineyards set between thick outcroppings of forest. Winds from the Mediterranean Sea provide ventilation, while clay-rich soils help to retain water through dry periods. Sesta di Sopra farms seven vineyards across a total of four hectares, all using the BBS11 clones. The oldest vineyard, planted 43 years ago, fuels their single-vineyard Brunello Magistra. Matteo Marenda, the current generation, started working full-time at the winery two years ago, under the careful watch of his father and mother. The wines here are traditional in style, reflecting the ruggedness of the terroir while maintaining a polished and elegant feel. I’ve also observed their excellent aging potential on multiple occasions. Production is quite small, but this is a producer worth seeking out.