2017 Corton-Rognet Grand Cru

Seguin-Manuel is a lesser-known grower/négociant whose wines I have followed for more than a decade, my introduction via a remarkable tasting of ancient Seguin-Manuel bottled wines auctioned by Thibaut Marion to help finance the rebirth of the name back in 2004. His winery is tucked just behind Albert Bichot, round the corner from Benjamin Leroux. Over the last decade, Marion has successfully expanded the portfolio, a mixture of domaine holdings mainly around Savigny-lès-Beaune, and rented vineyards, producing a range of fine white and reds all the way up to Grand Crus. He is a knowledgeable winemaker, respected by many of his peers. This year, he told me that he commenced the picking around September 3 and 4 and did not use any SO2 until the end of the malolactic fermentation. This range produced a couple of surprises. Take, for example, a delightful Montagny Vigne du Soleil, a Premier Cru with quite an evocative name, crisp and pure and demonstrating what Montagny can do in the right hands. It is also worth seeking out the Puligny-Montrachet Les Rechaux from Marion’s own parcel, what you might consider a top Village Cru and a consistent performer in recent vintages. Amongst the reds, the Echézeaux shows the most potential at the top end, but I also find much promise in the Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes and a very fine Nuits Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes.