2016 Riesling feinherb

Florian Fauth picked his best 2016 vintage Rieslings in mid-October. “I was tempted to harvest even earlier,” he said, given that some parcels suffered extreme losses to peronospora which accelerated sugar accumulation, “but the aromatics just weren’t there yet.” In the end, he managed to keep alcohol barely on one side or the other of 13% in all of his dry wines – a bit lower than in 2015 – and although many of these are marked by relatively low acidity that in some instances deprives them of optimum vivacity and freshness, on the whole they are impressive in their soft-spoken way. Would that more Wonnegau growers were less concerned with delivering density, pith and power from these sites by sublimating Riesling’s native fruit character and instead followed Florian Fauth’s stylistic lead in recognition that, with Riesling, generous fruit is by no means incompatible with pronounced mineral characteristics. Precisely because the best of these Seehof 2016s are so nicely proportioned and don’t strain to make their site-specific points, I predict that they will prove not just more fun to drink (of that there’s no question) but also longer-lived than their vintage 2015 predecessors. “You have to be clear,” maintained Fauth in regard to residually sweet Kabinett, “that less is more.” In important respects, that adage applies to his entire portfolio and ought to be taken to heart by more of his Riesling-growing compatriots. (For background on Fauth and his family’s estate, consult the introduction to my account of his 2014s.)