2006 Côte-Rôtie
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2023 - 2035
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Kitchen W8 is well worth seeking out. I enjoyed the local, relaxed ambiance, perhaps things moving at a slightly slower pace here than elsewhere in the city. Prices are more reasonable than many, especially for lunch and early evening, and the quality of cooking is very assured and unpretentious.
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Louis Barruol described 2007 as "a vintage of great freshness, with immediate accessibility, which is the opposite of 2005. If you don't have patience, then 2005 isn't your year. " Growers up and down the river are under increased pressure from negociants for high-quality fruit, Barruol told me, "and it has become increasingly difficult for a small operation like us to compete for fruit with the big outside money that has started to come into the region. My family has been here for over 500 years, so it is more than a little disconcerting to think that we might be marginalized in the near future. "
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Louis Barruol finds his 2006 northern Rhone wines to be more restrained than the 2005s, but believes that their low pHs will lift them, like Burgundies. In the south, he says, "the 2006s are a lot like the '99s, with more ripeness and great freshness. They will be delicious young but will also age." He pointed out that "20 years ago, 2006 would have been considered an extremely ripe year but now it's a normal one." As for his 2005s from both ends of the river, he advised putting them away "because it would be a shame to drink them now." He also made a point of saying that he is extremely happy with how the 2004s are turning out, especially in the south.
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