1998 Condrieu

Louis Barruol took over this 15-hectare domain from his father in 1997, and with his '98s will quickly establish himself as one of the stars of the appellation. With his wire-rim glasses and studious mien, Baruel looks like a young professor at the University of Gigondas. The cellar here, in the subbasement of his Gallo-Roman house, features the remnants of a cuverie from the 2nd century. "It was constructed on different levels, even back then, which meant that they could do racking by gravity," says Barruol. Most of Barruol Gigondas vines are in spots he describes as "trop tardive et trop sec," perfect for syrah and grenache but far from ideal for mourvedre ("I don't have one vine of mourvedre,"). He can pick the syrah very late, with the grenache, and ferment the two varieties together, which he says creates important synergy. The harvest here in '98 began in Indian summer conditions at the beginning of October, more than a week after the rains of the equinox. Barruol also has a small negociant business in the north, thus far specializing in Cote-Rotie and Condrieu. (Patrick Lesec Selections, imported by Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; The Stacole Company, Inc., Boca Raton, FL; and Michel-Schlumberger Wines Ltd., Healdsburg, CA)