2008 Chardonnay River Block

"While most people say that 2007 is a better vintage than 2008, I disagree," said Tom Rochioli. "There's a freshness and purity to the fruit in 2008 that's appealing right now but there's also the concentration to age. The 2007s really need patience for the structure to soften, which isn't a concern with the '08s. I like richness and power, which we got in '07, but what I'm really after is symmetry, which is what's cool about the '08s." Rochioli told me that 2008 will be the last vintage for a while for the East Block pinot noir, as he has torn out these virused vines and will be replanting the vineyard. He also emphasized his commitment to the so-called heritage clones of chardonnay. "I love the extra degree-rather, degrees-of complexity that they consistently deliver here. They just can't be beat." The same goes for the traditional California clones of pinot noir but he thinks that the vaunted Swan clones-and he emphasized that there are actually many of them, not a single version-"absolutely have to be cropped low. If you do that then they're awesome." He is also extremely fond of the Louis Latour grand cru barrels that he uses for his top chardonnays. There are only around 2,000 of these barriques produced each year, according to Rochioli, who says that they help to give a seamless texture, and that the spice from these barrels integrates extremely well with chardonnay.