2007 Riesling Kiedricher Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese

With 75 hectares of vineyards and an annual production of over 500,000 bottles this estate is not only one of the largest in Germany but also one of the best. While 2007 shone more on the drier side, 2008 brought a bevy of noble late-harvest rieslings that were not only lusciously dense, but also refreshingly light owing to lively acidity. Although I describe only one of them below, this estate made three of the top ten stickies this year and one of the finest ausleses to boot. Perhaps only Keller in Rheinhessen manages the range from dry riesling to trockenbeerenauslese quite as well, but he make only a fraction of the volume, which is why Weil is one of the few wineries in Germany to have an almost branded character, similar to the finest growths in Bordeaux Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Trocken (85), 2008 Kiedricher Klosterberg Riesling Trocken (87), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Spatlese (89), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Auslese (90), 2008 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Auslese (92), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (94), 2008 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Capsule (95), 2008 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (95). (Loosen Brothers, Portland OR

In spite of the large volume produced, this estate has remained consistent in quality over the years. Interestingly, though, as its drier styles improve, the otherworldly aura of their spatlese and auslese bottlings has taken on a more human face. In fact, in 2007 the Erstes Gewachs from the Grafenberg vineyard is my favorite wine. Few estates manage the range from kabinett to trockenbeerenauslese quite as well as Weil, which is why it is one of the only wineries in Germany big enough to be viewed as a global brand, similar to the finest growths in Bordeaux. (Rudi Wiest) Also recommended: 2007 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken (87), 2007 Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2007 Kiedricher Klosterberg Riesling Trocken (89), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trocken (90), 2007 Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (87), 2007 Riesling Kabinett (88), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Spatlese (88), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Auslese (89), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Beerenauslese (92), 2007 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Beerenauslese (93), 2007 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (93). Other wines tasted: 2007 Riesling Trocken.