1998 Chardonnay Reserve
United States
Carneros
Napa
White
Chardonnay
00
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Mondavi's huge new winemaking facility for its growing program of reserve and district-designated wines will be finished in time for the 2000 vintage. The wines will be fermented in 56 new 5,000-gallon Taransaud oak tanks, and Mondavi will switch to gentler basket pressing, as at Opus One. On my recent visit, I focused on the bright '98 whites, picked on the early side with sound acids, and the ripe, pliant, very smooth '97 reds. Mondavi's great 450-acre To-Kalon Vineyard fared relatively well in the difficult 1998 vintage, even if the wines made from this year cannot match the '97s for sheer size and generosity of flavor.