2023 Grauburgunder

Erik Riffel also comments on the two driving forces of the year: “Two thousand twenty-three initially was characterized by dryness and very low precipitation, which reduced vegetation. We had to do relatively little canopy management; we did not even have to wind the top shoots as usual,” he says. “This resulted in loose grape bunches. For us, the rain started on our first day of harvest, and we finished within three quick weeks. Despite the loose clusters and small berries, some split and turned to rot, so we quickly selected scrupulously.” While minor varieties like Portugieser were struggling, Riesling was more dependent on site, with heavier soils like Osterberg being less resilient than the stony Scharlachberg. While Riffel describes the harvest as “intense,” he still is grateful that more extreme weather passed them by–there was no hail or torrential rain. Selection meant losses preventing the village Riesling Quarzit from being made in 2023, as Riffel used that fruit to make up the quantities of the bestseller estate wine.