2014 Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard

According to Kevin Harvey, the key to 2014 and 2013 is that while both vintages, were warmer than historical averages, temperatures cooled down during August and September to the point that conditions were not excessively hot during harvest, which is, of course, the most critical time of the year. That said, yields in 2014 were the lowest of the three drought vintages of 2012-2014, with a bit more overall stress in the vineyards given the length of the cycle. The conditions resulted in a set of powerful, intense wines. Harvey adds that acids were generally higher than 2013, but not as high as 2012. The Pinots are brooding, while the Chardonnays are bold and very-ripe. The Chardonnays are notoriously slow agers. I will be surprised if they are not even better with a few years' time. The other big news at Rhys is Kevin Harvey's new Carricante project on Sicily's Mount Etna. Harvey told me he thinks Carricante is the world's third most pedigreed white variety after Chardonnay and Riesling. As much as I admire Carricante, there doesn't seem to be enough data to support that view, as good as Benanti's older Pietra Marina bottlings can be. The first Carricante from Harvey's new Aeris label is attractive, but it is also a work in progress. Still, given Harvey's track record at Rhys, I have little doubt he and partner/winemaker Salvo Foti will soon be making distinguished whites in Sicily as well.