2009 Pinot Noir Boxcar Sonoma Coast

Carroll Kemp, who has set up Red Car in a spacious, utilitarian winery and tasting room smack in the middle of Graton, told me that "2009 gave us everything that we could ask for for the style we're after. There's a focus to the wines that's really exciting." Kemp attributes that to "a cool harvesting season that kept sugars from running away and maintained fresh acidity." He described the Red Car style as "one that emphasizes the transparency and energy that's unique to fruit from the coast." He admits that earlier wines here were "big and powerful but often at the expense of the vibrancy we want. Rich is cool and all, but balance and brightness are more interesting."