2007 Chardonnay Carneros District

David Ramey calls 2007 "a seamless, unforced vintage where we were able to pick at will rather than being rushed by heat spikes or rainstorms." He went on: "Everybody should have been able to get the type of fruit that they were looking for." This was especially welcome with his chardonnay, he added, "because I want green grapes, not golden ones." Ramey noted that the 2007 reds "are very tannic, analytically, but the wines don't come across that way," adding that he thinks they will reward patience but without ever going through too much of a cranky phase. Ramey showed me a mini-vertical of Hyde chardonnay to emphasize that wine's ability to improve with age. The 2002 offered a compelling blend of honeyed, truffley richness and citrus bite, while the 2001 showed deep, smoky butterscotch and singed orange character. The 2000 was intensely spicy and mineral-driven and the 1999 was fully mature, with deep, buttery pear and melon flavors and a downright nervy spiciness.