2021 Chardonnay Bentrock Vineyard

This is a fine set of new releases from Racines, the project headed by Etienne de Montille. The 2021s are the first vintage made by winemaker Ryan Hannaford following Justin Willett’s departure, so they represent a time of transition. It is only natural that an experienced winemaker like de Montille and his Burgundy winemaker Brian Sieve (a native of Santa Barbara) would want to apply their knowledge to the Sta. Rita Hills, but that has not always worked so well. The Chardonnays have generally been more successful than the Pinots, which in some vintages suffered from pushed extractions, overpowering stem character and perhaps too much time in barrel as well. The 2020s are the peak of that style. Ultimately, the challenge for de Montille and his team is to take the time-worn practices of Burgundy to make wines that are from California and not France. The 2021s suggest that is happening.