2012 Syrah Kenefick Ranch

Winemaker Mike Smith was in pretty high spirits despite an ill-timed accident during harvest that fortunately turned out to be inconvenient but not too serious. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Quivet this year, especially considering the winery doesn't work with A-list sites yet, with the possible exception of Las Piedras. In that sense, these vineyards are the equivalent of premier crus in Burgundy; still very good and sometimes better than that, but not the very top. Although it may be unfashionable to say so given the grape's lack of popularity in the market, my sneaking suspicion is that Smith's real and most natural talent lies in making Syrah.