1997 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano

The Produttori del Barbaresco, which operates at its own deliberate pace, has just shipped its line-up of '97s to the U.S. (most of its neighbors in Barbaresco have already sent their '99s). The Produttori, according to commercial director Aldo Vacca, will offer just a single Barbaresco from the '98 vintage, eschewing its normal range of cru bottlings. "The '98 vintage was better than '95," Vacca explained. "We made the crus in '95, but that was because this vintage followed four bad years. Vintage '98 produced good, elegant wines with medium body, but quality was variable, with drier sites generally doing better. We felt that the blend was a better idea." Vacca described '99 as "like '96: tannic, tough, strong." I got an early look at a few of these wines, which will not be released until 2004. Vacca was reluctant to show the rest as he felt the vintage was in an awkward stage. "It's like a slightly out-of-focus picture," he told me. "It has artistic value but it doesn't have great clarity yet." Vias Imports, New York, NY)