2010 Côte-Rôtie
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Like his business partner (in Vins de Vienne) and winemaking colleague, Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard is a firm believer in the efficacy of barrel-fermentation and aging in oak for viognier. "Stainless steel causes too much reduction and you have to rack the wines too often, which diminishes freshness, and that's what viognier is all about," he explained. Everybody knows this about syrah by now, he added, but a lot of people don't realize that the same dictum holds true for viognier, "which is why too many viogniers, especially in the New World, lack flesh. Or it's the other way around and they let the oak dictate the fruit. It isn't an easy variety."