2012 Pinot Noir Estate Scallop Shelf

Pinot Noir takes center stage in this set of new and upcoming releases from the Peay family. The 2012s are open, radiant and beautifully expressive, while the 2013 are a touch more restrained in style. As a reminder, Peay makes three Pinots from their estate vineyard right on the Sonoma Coast; Ama, Pomarium and Scallop Shelf. Those wines aren't vineyard designates, but rather stylistic blends. The Sonoma Coast Pinot is a blend of estate fruit and grapes purchased from an adjacent property. Peay's Savoy Pinot Noir, from Anderson Valley, is presently the only true vineyard designate in the range. Conditions seem to have been less favorable for Syrah, as both bottlings aren't quite as exciting as the Pinots as the flavors and varietal notes appear to be not fully developed.

After suffering through "pretty much a financial apocalypse" of severely reduced crops in 2010 and 2011, Andy Peay said that 2012 and 2013 have provided at least temporary relief thanks to their abundant yields. Production in 2012 was literally double that of 2011 here and the work required, according to Peay, "was more about keeping the vines from growing crazy, while in '11 it was about trying to get them to ripen before Christmas, if ever."

Peay is in the middle of nowhere. Literally. Reaching the sprawling, rugged estate is an adventure in and of itself. A collection of hillside sites with multiple exposures set within acres on undeveloped forest, Peay is one of the most marginal sites for growing grapes, even within the context of the Sonoma Coast. Two tons per acre, the bare minimum for most vineyards, is a rare occurrence. The wines, though, are usually terrific and often magnificent. Nick Peay looks after the vineyard, while his wife, Vanessa Wong, makes the wines. Andy Peay, Nick's brother, runs the business. Peay's 2011s show the limits of the cool growing season, as they lack a little of the depth that is found in the more succulent and expressive 2012s. Readers who have not discovered Peay owe it to themselves to do so. The Pinots in particular are worthy of note.