2020 Chablis Forêts 1er Cru
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2023 - 2033
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I embarked on the usual comprehensive tasting through Piuze’s complete range of 2020s down in his cellar, including the multitudinous single-vineyard and site-specific bottlings that occasionally make it confusing. “It was a weird vintage because of Covid,” the Canadian-born winemaker told me. “We had an early spring with good flowering. There wasn’t too much of a catastrophe, just a bit of oïdium, though it was not on the grapes. I decided to start the picking early as I was afraid of the end of harvest. I thought I might sacrifice one or two [cuvées] to underripeness as I started on August 22, so that I could pick most plots perfectly ripe. I was happy with the decision. Débourbage was 12 hours, as we are static with no temperature control. The alcoholic and malolactic fermentation was very fast and finished by November 15. The sulfur didn’t combine at all, only after winter in the first heat wave. So we had to do a big correction at filtration, even though levels are still low. As we don’t de-gas with nitrogen at bottling, we see more sulfur just after.” I often detect a bit of anti-Piuze sentiment when discussing his production, perhaps because he is not French or because he relies on contracts rather than his own vineyard land. But there is a lot to like about his wines, and they age well in bottle, not to mention the fact that he is closer to his contractors than many whose families have farmed Chablis for decades. Go for his Les Roncières or Le Séchets as an ideal introduction, or his Vaulorent 1er Cru "QC" if you want something special.