2009 Dolcetto Santa Barbara County
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Chrystal and Steve Clifton have positioned their winery as one of the best, if not the best, sources for Italianate wines in the U.S. On my latest visit, I was once again struck by the wines' absence of excessive sweetness-and by their restraint, a quality I miss in too many New World versions of Italian varieties. That restraint is an essential part of the Cliftons' game plan, Steve told me, "because we're obsessed with food, and the ability of the best Italian wines to work alongside rather than against food is a huge part of our attraction to them. Rich, heavy wines are a distraction at the table and are better for sitting around playing 'mine is bigger than yours.'"
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