2023 Riesling

Palliser Estate, a Martinborough producer, specializes in aromatic whites and Pinot Noir. Since taking over in 2018, Guy McMaster has been evolving the winemaking toward a less-is-more approach. Hand-harvest and whole-bunch pressing the whites is standard practice here, allowing 10% of the wine to ferment in older barrels before spending three months on lees. The use of oak for Pinot Noir is also evolving, employing less heavily seasoned barrels, allowing fruit to shine. Weather-wise, they’ve had two pretty horrible years in succession: in 2022, heavy rains in February followed by humid, overcast conditions led to disease pressure and some prompt picking. The 2023 growing season was temperate and wet, with 680 millimeters of rain (a figure that’s similar to the region’s annual average). Picking decisions were often forced due to disease pressure and weather conditions. Both vintages are better for whites than reds, with lower alcohol years, high acidity and less flavor ripeness. The wines are clean, and of note is the 2022 Chardonnay Om Santi, a richly textured wine with a suave, supple mid-palate. It’s quite the feat considering the conditions.