2012 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia
Italy
Toscana
Tuscany
Red
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot (2023 vintage)
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Ornellaia's 2011s and 2012s are both highly expressive of their respective vintages. I remember stopping by Ornellaia in mid-August 2011, just as the harvest at Masseto was about to get started. It was very hot and dry, even for Bolgheri. Not surprisingly, those qualities show up in the wines. In challenging years Ornellaia can be more complete than Masseto because winemaker Axel Heinz can react to the vintage by optimizing the final blend. That is very much the case in 2011. When it comes to Masseto, however, the potential and limits of Merlot are on full display. The 2012s benefit from cooler growing season, especially in the summer months, where there were greater diurnal shifts. Readers looking for an attractive, mid-tier alternative to Tuscany's heavy hitters should check out Le Serre di Ornellaia, which has been particularly strong in recent years.
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