1998 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia
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Lodovico Antinori's estate has had an admirable record of consistency in the 1990s: if none of the wines were mind-blowing, all were good, professional products, and even difficult vintages such as 1992 and 1994 gave dignified, well-made wines. Quality definitely seems on the rise, and the 1997, 1998, and 1999 vintages promise to end the decade with a flourish. One key to success has been the professional counseling of Michel Rolland for the winemaking aspects and Andrea Paoletti, perhaps Italy's outstanding agronomist, for the vineyards.
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