2012 Pinot Noir Solomon Hills

Making so many different wines from different varieties and vineyards "keeps the mind active," according to Adam Tolmach, and it also "keeps you curious—it's impossible to fall into a rut.” Assistant winemaker Fabien Castel noted that Ojai has been steadily moving to fewer punchdowns during fermentation "to preserve elegance and avoid overextraction" and that the oak regimen continues to rely heavily on neutral and "really neutral" barrels. Tolmach said, again, that while he continues to be pleased "more often than not" by how the richer, more powerful wines that he made in the past have aged, "that's not the style that makes me happy."

My tasting this year at Ojai was epic. Winemaker/Proprietor Adam Tolmach and Assistant Winemaker Fabien Castel have done a fabulous job with these new and upcoming releases. The highlights are centered among the Pinots and Syrahs. I am less enthused with the 2012 Chardonnays, which lack some of the customary level of Ojai energy. In exchange, though, those wines will drink well right out of the gate. Tolmach adds that the 2012s continue to put on weight in bottle, while the 2013s were born with more density and structure. Both years produced generous crops. In 2012, the Fe Ciega, Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills Pinots were all made with dollops of whole clusters, while all of the Syrahs were made from fully destemmed fruit. Because of the short harvest and low production, the 2011 reds are going to be hard to find. The 2012s, on the other hand will be more readily available. Given the number of small-production bottlings in this range, the best approach is to sign up for the winery's mailing list. Also tasted: 2013 Rosé.