2022 Pinot Noir Occidental Station

This is a gorgeous set of wines from Steve and Catherine Kistler. Bad weather during flowering reduced the crop significantly to just over one ton per acre, the lowest since 2015. That may have ultimately been a blessing in disguise, as the Kistlers were able to bring everything in between August 22 and 29, in other words, before the Labor Day heat spikes. The entire ranch is planted with the Riparia Gloire rootstock, which is notoriously shy-bearing and known for encouraging a relatively short vegetative cycle, both benefits in this challenging vintage. The 2022s spent 19-22 days on the skins, a few days less than usual, as the skins were fragile. All the wines were aged in François Frères barrels (25% new) made from wood selected by Occidental that is then seasoned in France for three years.

The 2022s come in around 12.8% in alcohol, a touch lower than normal. As a result, the wines have a bit less overt density than most years but still have that textured fruit character that is such a signature here. The SWK is the star. If I could have only one of these wines, the SWK would be the one. It is among the very finest Pinots of the vintage, a pretty select group this year. The Bodega Headlands Vineyard Cuvée Elizabeth is the most immediate of the wines today. The Occidental Station, from a warmer site a few miles from the winery, is always the most overt and supple of the wines.

I tasted the 2022s twice, once at the estate and a second time at home. It's always instructive to be able to follow wines over time, as any vineyard visit, no matter how much time is allotted, only offers a snapshot. I also tasted the 2014s at the winery. It's an ideal vintage for drinking now.