1990 Riesling Vinothek

It happened again this year that the Saahs harvested their entire crop well before most others among the best growers even got started. Beginning September 3 and finishing on October 1, though, was a record, even for Nikolaihof. Not surprisingly then, this collection is possessed of a brightness of natural acidity seldom encountered in other 2003s. That the wines do not taste underripe is, the Saahs insist, a function of the scrupulously biodynamic vineyard regimen practiced here, and in particular of the absence of fungicides that inhibit ripening even as they protect against mildew and rot. That said, I found this year's Federspiel offerings as well as the wines from chardonnay and pinot blanc disappointingly lacking in character. The 2003 riesling from Steiner Hund was as usual still residing in cask and not shown to me on this visit, but I report on the finished 2002 � as well as on another extraordinary new release� following my notes on the 2003s below. (Terry Theise) Also recommended: 2003 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder.