1997 Gimmeldinger Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese

The consistently excellent crop here was even smaller than in 1996-as Hans-Gunter Schwarz explains, "first through winter frost, then an extensive green harvest, and then drought making for berries low in juice." At the rate things have been going, the estate recent four-hectare addition is merely going to compensate for overall crop losses. Had there been a bit of rain in August, Schwarz thinks, '97 might have been a truly great vintage here. They were essentially finished picking in the first days of November. The massive 1996 Muller-Catoir pinot noir, by the way, gave an impressive account of itself on the occasion of my visit, with vivid black fruit, superbly integrated oak and impressive richness. I eliminate notes on a couple of outstanding dry wines that will not reach our shores. (Terry Theise)