2006 Pinot Noir En Famille

Luc Morlet's first releases under his own label were a revelation in March. Happily, production will rise to about 2,000 cases in the 2007 vintage (just 1,200 cases were made in '06), and there will also be a five-variety Bordeaux blend from Knights Valley fruit as well as a cabernet from the To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville. Morlet, who was responsible for making the Peter Michael wines from 2001 through 2005 (his brother Nic is now in charge there, although Luc continues to consult), and vinified at Staglin in 2006, looks for older vines from top sites, buying heavily from a "true Sonoma Coast" vineyard at an altitude of about 1,400 feet on the second ridge in from the ocean. Everything I tasted with Morlet was outstanding, and his top pinot was one of the most exciting examples of this variety I've tasted to date from California.