1998 Meursault Genevrieres

The new negociant wines of Michel Coutoux, the son-in-law of Michel Niellon, were among the top discoveries of my recent tastings on the Cote de Beaune. Coutoux, who works with Niellon in the vines and in the cave began his own operation with just 15 barrels of wine in 1997, increased his purchases to 30 in '98, and will have 60 in '99. These are pure, complex wines with excellent vibrancy and flavor definition. Coutoux works directly with his suppliers, rather than through courtiers buying must directly after the grapes have been pressed. He does what he calls a traditional levage "like my father-in-law," racking in late spring and bottling prior to the following harvest. He stirs the lees regularly between the alcoholic fermentation and the end of the malolactic. Coutoux ages his wines in 25% to 30% new oak, using a slightly higher percentage for the Meursault premier crus. Coutoux prizes the balance of 1999, but points out that the wines lack ultimate grip and structure due to the high yields of the year.