2003 Herrenberg Riesling

Carl von Schubert has plucked young Stefan Kraml from the von Othegraven estate in Kanzem to be the new cellarmaster and vineyard manager at Grunhaus. This is a tall order, particularly inasmuch as quality and consistency at Grunhaus have slipped in recent years from the exalted level achieved during cellarmaster/vineyard manager Alphonse Heinrich's tenure. Given Kraml's determination and enthusiasm-to say nothing of Carl von Schubert's continuing commitment to quality-it is more exciting to look forward to 2004 here than to linger too long over the frequently diffuse and phenolically rough results in 2003. That said, there is a diverse group from this year's crop well worth recommending. (Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK) Also recommended: 2003 Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, 2003 Abtsberg Riesling Auslese, 2003 Herrenberg Riesling Beerenauslese, 2003 Abtsberg Riesling Eiswein.