1997 Herrenberg Riesling Trocken

The crop here was cut by frost and poor flowering. "Still," says Carl von Schubert, "it didn't break the record set in 1980: 15 hectoliters per hectare. And if you'd asked me in June what our yields were going to be, I'd have answered 'a lot less'." Ample moisture in October finally plumped up the grapes a bit, not a problem given how few bunches were hanging. And the poor flowering had made them exceedingly sparse and quick to dry. "We've hardly ever had a crop with such concentration and ripeness but virtually without botrytis. What also contributes to the character of the wine is that there were a high number of seedless berries, with much more concentration, lots of aroma, much more flavor and a different flavor from a normal grape. We had must weights like 1976 but the style is entirely different." Did a vintage character emerge from my tastings, though? I think not. 1997 here is like a nursery, a perfect hothouse for the propagation of great wines, each allowed to go its own unhindered way and express its own personality. Stocks were rationed this year, so don't delay. (Chapin Cellars, Virginia Beach, VA and Valckenberg)