2022 Riesling Bopparder Hamm Engelstein Grosses Gewächs

Johannes Müller spoke of the combination of rain and the extreme heat of his warm, Rhine-facing sites in 2023. “It was relatively clear that we would have to hurry,” he notes, remembering the “extreme photosynthesis” enabled by temperature and water availability. Harvest started on 6 September with Pinot Noir, followed by Grau- and Weissburgunder. The first two weeks of October provided “total heat,” which reduced juice in the berries while rot also had to be sorted out–altogether this meant 30% less yield. Müller notes a crunch point in the middle of harvest: “Ripeness turned to overripeness, and everything was go, go, go. But we could harvest raisined grapes.” Riesling presented them with both passerillage and noble botrytis. Thermics from the river dried the grapes, sometimes whole bunches were overripe with some raisined grapes–presenting almost more passerillage than botrytis. What is really impressive and critical, though, is not the sweetness but the exquisite acidity of the fruit–at truly thrilling levels. Müller also notes the “flavor intensity” of 2023. Harvest finished on 7 October. All this happened against the tragic backdrop of Müller’s brother Christoph being involved in a serious traffic accident. He is now on the mend, something that at the time could not be taken for granted. The 30% loss and the fact that a lot of sweet wine was made in 2023, resulted in a slimmed-down range. Rather than making the Bopparder Hamm Tonschiefer, Kieselgallenschiefer, etc., there now is one Bopparder Hamm Riesling in 2023. The 2023 Riesling collection, both dry and sweet, is a triumph. The sweet wines are standouts of uncommon raciness and brilliance. Well done.