2023 Rosato Lacrimarosa

The new releases from Mastroberardino demonstrate this storied estate's ability to adapt to modern-day vintages. While the 2017 Riservas (Stilema, Radici and Naturalis Historia) don’t show the radiance and classic structure of the 2016s, they do possess an impeccable balance despite the warm conditions of the year. In fact, instead of coming across as sun-kissed or in any way dried out, they are notably energetic, with a beautiful purity of fruit and tannins that promise further development. When asked about global warming, Piero Mastroberardino explains, “We can now achieve soft tannins in a big Taurasi; the world has changed." Whether or not this is a good thing for the long term remains to be seen. As for the 2019 Taurasi Radici, it’s a drop-dead classic, and I am very excited to see how the Riservas will show two years from now. It will easily continue to impress for the next two decades or more. The 2019 Fiano di Avellino Riserva Stilema was also on full display in this tasting, showing tremendous potential. I revisited the 2016s on this visit but chose not to publish notes. The wines haven’t changed much over the last year, confirming that 2016 is one of the best vintages here in many years. Mastroberardino remains a reference point producer in the region, with its eyes firmly set on the future.