2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Village

“I was nervous with the Gevrey vineyards,” explains Australian-born Mark Haisma at his winery in Gilly. It’s far removed from the Xanadus sprouting across the Côte d’Or, ostensibly a functional dual-purpose ‘tin shed’ that turns grapes into wine and provides a roof over his head. “In previous vintages, we balanced the wines with sucrosity. But in 2021, we can play with the pH to create that balance, and that’s far more interesting for me as a winemaker. Here, it is about allowing the sensuality to come through by picking at the point where the pH softens the perception of acidity. I was very careful with extraction as I felt we didn’t have the weight of the fruit.” Haisma’s deep well of experience working with stems pays off in a strong set of 2021s that demonstrate assiduous use of whole bunches to enhance his wines and render them far more complex than they might have been. These are wines that I just want to drink, even at this premature stage, which is their raison d’être. Over several years, Haisma has toiled away to build a loyal customer base, especially in the UK, and they will surely lap up these delicious wines.