2022 Côteaux Bourguignon

The irrepressible Australian winemaker/bogan was typically animated when I visited his winery in Gilly. The significant change in 2022 is the division of his Domaine and négoce cuvées, the former signified by green text and the latter red. Farming his own vines has been a long ambition since arriving in the region. Navigating the headwinds that outsiders inevitably face when trying to establish themselves, Haisma’s fluent French must greatly help. Finally, he has his own vines in Gevrey-Chambertin, Pernand-Vergelesses, Bourgogne Rouge and planted on fallow land in the Mâconnais, probably raising the ire of locals by cultivating a few rows of Syrah in Mancey. He’s not being recalcitrant; if global warming is destined to reconfigure what can be grown in Burgundy, surely winemakers must start experimenting now? Haisma is “maturing” as a winemaker vintage by vintage, and there are some very fine 2022s, many sold directly to consumers.