2000 Malescot St. Exupéry
France
Margaux Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Bordeaux Blend
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The index of polyphenols was extremely high in 2002, according to Jean-Luc Zuger, but the tannins were very ripe, thanks to two passes through the vineyards to drop crop, plus leaf-pulling. After having eliminated less-than-perfect grapes on sorting tables before and after destemming, the estate had production of just 27 hectoliters per hectare. The 2002 is aging on its lees in 100% new oak, with the lees getting a weekly stirring (batonnage became routine here with the 1998 vintage).
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Jean-Luc Zuger describes his young 2001 as "better balanced than the 2000 in the best sense." After Malescot's previous chef de culture retired prior to the 2001 growing season, the estate carried out a more serious green harvest than in the past and ultimately produced just 35 hectoliters per hectare, down sharply from 52 in 2000. The warm wine goes straight to 100% new barrels (some of the malolactic often occurs in cuve), where the lees are stirred until May. Minimal handling is the rule here: the '99, according to Zuger, was bottled without fining or filtration.
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This estate, quietly making excellent wine in recent years, did substantial crop-thinning and aeration of the fruit in 2000 but still produced a rather full 52 hectoliters per hectare. Malescot typically carries out a saignee of 5% to 20% to concentrate its must, and in 2000 used osmose inverse for the first time, raising the potential alcohol of the cabernet sauvignon no more than 5%. But no concentrating techniques were used for the merlot, which was harvested with potential alcohol in the 13.5% range. According to Jean-Luc Zuger, the estate has done less microbullage this year because the tannins are not hard and the wines don't need extra oxygenation. And the estate has done considerable stirring of the lees, a technique it undertook in force with the '99. Zuger emphasized that the sample I tasted was not "the final final blend," and that it was taken from all new barrels.