2008 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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x000D The excellent first set of wines from this small new negociant in 2007 were no fluke: Olivier Bernstein's 2008s are even better despite the tricky vintage, thanks to much greater control over viticulture and vinification. Because he was in a position to control the vineyard work (he did the green harvesting himself), he vinified a number of his 2008s with 50% whole clusters. He sorted in the vineyard and twice in the winery, eventually eliminating about 40% of the fruit. "There was almost no rot; it was just a question of ripeness," he told me, adding that his '08s range up to 13.3% alcohol, with no chaptalization. And he also vinified the 2008s in better conditions, in his own small facility in Gevrey-Chambertin. Bernstein is convinced that even in a difficult economic environment, there is still a market for premium-priced "no-compromise" wines like his; in November he told me that all of his 2008s were already sold (he bottled 33 barrels of 2007 wine and will have 50 of 2008). He is also among those who say that 2008 is a great vintage, with a great capacity for aging, but added that, in his experience, "the number of producers who made truly outstanding wines is relatively small." (A Becky Wasserman selection)
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