2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Olivier Bernstein's 2011s are very pretty. The bottled wines all show slight signs of reduction, which isn't terribly worrisome, but readers who are drinking these wines young should plan on opening bottles well in advance. The 2011s were vinified with 50% whole clusters, with the exception of the Bonnes-Mares, where the percentage of whole clusters was closer to 80%. Bernstein adds that his malos were quite late for the year, which partly explains the huge strides many of the wines in the collection have made since I first tasted them last year.
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Owing to the high percentage of low-yielding old vines he works with, said Olivier Bernstein, "the fruit is reaching ripeness early enough to retain good acidity." The pHs of the 2011s today are in the fairly low-for-the-vintage 3.3 to 3.4 range, according to Bernstein, who describes his young 2011s as "rounder and less minerally than the 2010s, and capable of offering a lot of pleasure." The fruit he purchases was typically harvested at 11.8% to 12% potential alcohol and he chaptalized about one degree. Bernstein has been steadily increasing his percentage of whole-cluster vinification, and in 2011 it averaged 60%. The malos in Bernstein's new cellar in Beaune generally finished in late August and the wines were still in 100% new oak, unracked, at the time of my November visit. (A Becky Wasserman selection; also handled by Thomas Calder Selections)