2003 Echezeaux
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Like a number of his colleagues on the Cote d'Or, Frederic Magnien says the best aspect of vintage 2004 was the juice, not the skins or stems. "If you extracted during vinification you could get a richer middle palate; but if you extracted too much, the attack and the end of the wine are green. We did not try to extract something that wasn't there. "As at the family domain (Michel Magnien), he did an extended ten-day cold soak but did not chaptalize. The actual alcoholic fermentation took barely three days, and there was no post-fermentation maceration; as in 2001, Magnien did not really trust the ripeness of the tannins. Magnien added:"In 2003, we did gentle extraction too, but for a different reason. We wanted to avoid the Rhone Valley side of the vintage, which was in the thick skins, not the juice. We vinified to preserve the pinot style. "Magnien, who told me he's more skilled at buying fruit than he is at marketing his wines, offers a growing array of bottlings. I focused on the 2004s from barrel in Burgundy and followed up by tasting a selection of the bottled 2003s chez moi in January. Most of the 2004s had been racked recently and were in tank; Magnien planned to bottle the wines between December and March. (A Peter Vezan selection, imported by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA)