2003 Grands-Echezeaux

Wine Details
Place of Origin

France

Burgundy

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Pinot Noir

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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Laurent describes the 2004s as less precise and pure than the 2001s owing to rot, oidium and hail, but he emphasized that the newer crop of wines is riper, especially the cuvees from later-harvested fruit. "It was important to press gently, and not to use the press wine," he told me, "and that's why I bought so little wine in 2004. "As a rule, Laurent used much less new oak to age the wines due to the harder tannins of the hailed-on fruit. At the time of our tasting, Laurent planned to cut his prices by up to 40% for this vintage. As in past vintages, the top wines here are of very high quality.

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I have the impression that Laurent's wines have been much more consistent in quality since the 2000 vintage, and his 2003s showed extremely well in November.Laurent was very much in the camp of the late harvesters, as thoroughly ripe phenolic material is crucial to his elevage.Almost all of his wines from the Cote de Nuits came from fruit harvested in September; but even most of his Cote de Beaunes were picked after the refreshing precipitation of August 28.Laurent told me that half of the malos were finished by the time he took possession of the barrels of wine in January and February.In general, those wines that were vinified with whole clusters proceeded more slowly.For those willing to purchase wine from Laurent's early en primeur offering, there are always some serious bargains here:with 2003, Laurent will offer village wines from Gevrey, Chambolle, Volnay and Pommard that consist mainly of declassified premier crus, including old vines from lesser crus-often at opening prices that are barely half as high as his premier crus.As usual, I sampled a boatload of wine here, but not everything. Laurent told me that most of his village wines, plus his premier crus from the Cote de Beaune, were aging in 50% new and 50% one-year-old barrels, while his grand crus were in all new oak.For what it's worth, he noted that Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux and Musigny were his best vineyards in 2003. I should point out that virtually all of Laurent's 2003s will say "Vieilles Vignes" on the label.